GM 4L80E Transmission Rebuild and Repair/Service Manauls.4L80E Transmission repair manuals (4L85E) - Rebuild instructions
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4l80e rebuild manual download. Download: 4L80E Rebuild Procedures |
- ATRA - Download: 4L80E Rebuild Procedures
Transmission shift strategy is selected in such a way as to ensure the smoothest changing gear without the possibility of damage to the engine. Узнать больше a basis of the development of the four-speed automatic gearbox 4L80E was taken a legendary three-speed automatic gearbox 3L80E, which operated for more than 20 years. The automatic gearbox 4l80e rebuild manual download differs by the improved reliability and is able to operate under normal use for 30 or more years without repairs.
From weak points it can be identified only damage of the clutch which at frequent throttling when moving from place can 4l80e rebuild manual download go out of service.
To repair the automatic gearbox 4L80E in this 4l80e rebuild manual download does not diwnload any difficulty. The car owners only need to monitor the level of oil in the system, which is responsible for lubrication and cooling of moving parts. To change transmission oil is recommended everykilometers.
Thus, you can ensure maximum reliability when operating your car. Fluid capacity: Pans Numbers :. ATI Performance Products — How to rebuild 4L80E Transmission? Most Popular. Latest articles Transmission fluid rebuiild cost — how much?
Transmission Flush — what is it?
GM THM 4L80E ATRA MANUAL Repair Rebuild Book Transmission Guide 4LE – PDF Download
Transmission shift strategy is selected in such a way as to ensure the smoothest changing gear without the possibility of damage to the engine. For a basis of the development of the four-speed automatic gearbox 4L80E was taken a legendary three-speed automatic gearbox 3L80E, which operated for more than 20 years.
The automatic gearbox 4L80E differs by the improved reliability and is able to operate under normal use for 30 or more years without repairs. From weak points it can be identified only damage of the clutch which at frequent throttling when moving from place can quickly go out of service.
To repair the automatic gearbox 4L80E in this case does not represent any difficulty. The car owners only need to monitor the level of oil in the system, which is responsible for lubrication and cooling of moving parts.
To change transmission oil is recommended every , kilometers. Thus, you can ensure maximum reliability when operating your car. Step While the pump is bolted to a nice heavy transmission, use a screwdriver or chisel and hammer to distort and pry out the front seal.
Be careful not to gouge stuff nearby while doing so, particularly the stator splines. Step Unbolt the pump, and use an appropriate puller to remove the pump from the unit.
You may crack a passage without even knowing it, which pretty much guarantees a failed transmission rebuild. Discard the pump gasket if it comes off of the case and pump peacefully. Step Grab the turbine shaft, and lift the overdrive assembly out of the unit. Make sure you don't lose the thrust bearing between the overdrive unit and the forward clutch assembly. Step Remove the 4th clutch bolt from the bottom of the case, and lift the 4th clutch out of the case.
Due to the stress of the proper torque on the bolt, you should replace this bolt every time you remove it. Make sure you don't lose the thrust washer between the forward and direct clutch assemblies. Step Slide the direct clutch out of the case. Step Remove the center support bolt; you should replace this bolt any time you remove it. Step Prior to , cooler line fittings were positioned vertically near the front of the unit. Lube system modifications implemented in included repositioning the cooler lines, one in front, one to the rear.
The new design rear cooler line fitting protrudes into the center support, and will be destroyed if not removed before any attempt is made to remove the center support. Remove the rear cooler line fitting at this time if equipped. Step Slide the center support out of the case, either alone or with the gear train as one complete assembly. Either way, the rest of the gear train should slide out of the case. Make sure you don't lose either of the thrust washers that sit between the rear unit and the case.
Step If the selective thrust washer is still at the bottom of the case, remove it. Step Remove the output shaft seal retaining snap ring, then remove the output shaft seal from the case. Do not damage the seal's snap ring groove. Discard the seal. Step 2: Remove the seal rings and thrust washer from the rear of the pump. Step 6: Inspect stator support surfaces for wear from pump gears. If the stator support bushings appear to be in good shape and the turbine shaft bushing journals show no wear, you may decide to leave the stator support bushings alone.
If they do need to be replaced, now is the time to remove the old ones. Carefully inspect the pressure regulator boost valve and sleeve for any wear and replace if necessary the valve and sleeve are available without having to buy a whole pump.
Step 8: Thoroughly clean all pump body and stator support parts. Make sure that you remove any sealer residue from the pump body front seal bore. This bulletin is included at the end of the pump section on page If you are not familiar with what it covers, take the time now to read and become familiar with it. Step 9: Reassemble all valve trains into the stator support using the diagram in Step 7 as a guide.
Install new stator support bushings if required. Stake the bushing into place in the bore stake slots as shown. Step Coat the pump pocket and front bushing with assembly lube. Install the pump gears into the pocket with the marks on both gears facing up toward you.
Step Lower the stator support into position over the pump body, lining up the body feed passage ends with the support feed holes. Thread the pump assembly bolts into place, but leave them about a half-turn loose. Rotate the support to center the outer bolt holes by eye while tightening the strap. Remove the alignment strap or clamp.
Step Use assembly lube to hold the thrust washer in place on the back of the stator support. There are special tools designed to do this, and we recommend you get and use them, particularly on a unit as common as this one. Step Slide a torque converter hub into the pump or place the pump on a torque converter to make sure that the pump gears can rotate within the pump. Always soak friction clutches in clean ATF for at least 20 minutes before installing the clutches in the drum.
Note- It is almost impossible to properly perform these procedures without the proper 4th clutch lip seal installation tools. Step 1: If the clutch stack is still installed in the 4th clutch housing, remove the snap ring, and lift the clutch stack out of the drum. Press down on the return spring retainer near the snap ring end and, using snap ring pliers, pop one end of the snap ring out of its groove. Work your way around the housing as you press down on the return spring assembly, removing the snap ring from its groove as you go.
Remove the return spring assembly. Step 3: Remove the 4th clutch piston from the housing, and remove the lip seals from the piston and housing. Step 5: Lubricate the new lip seals, and install them in the piston and 4th clutch housing.
The housing seal lip should face the piston bore, and the piston seal lip should face down, toward the bottom of the piston. Step 6: Apply the proper lip seal installing tools, then gently guide the housing over the piston.
Since both seals go into their respective bores at roughly the same time, this can drive you nuts if you don't use the proper lip seal installing tools. This is one of those times when you almost have to have the correct tools. Although it can be done with conventional lip seal tools and methods, if you use the usual wire or blade method of installing lip seals have lots of spare seals available the first few times you try it. Step 7: Leaving the housing assembly upside down on the installation base, set the return spring onto the apply piston.
Use your thumb to compress one side of the return spring and start one of the snap ring ends in the ring groove, installing the snap ring into its groove as you go around the housing. Step 8: Install the clutch stack in the housing, starting with a steel plate, then alternating friction, steel, etc.
Make sure the notched steel lug of the steel plates sits in the one narrower groove in the housing, opposite the retaining bolt hole. Install the snap ring to secure the clutch stack. Step Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the snap ring and the pressure ProCarManuals. The clearance should be 0. If the clearance is wrong, change the pressure plate to bring the clearance into specs.
Step Remove the clutch stack from the housing. This will make it easier to install the overrun clutch housing. Restack the 4th clutch during transmission assembly. Step 1: Remove the snap ring from the turbine shaft, and slide the turbine shaft out of the overdrive planet.
Remove the oil control rings from the turbine shaft. Sand the roller clutch outer race in the drum with grit emery cloth. Replace any worn components. In addition, replace the roller clutch for any of these reasons:. Don't install the forward clutch rings the rings nearest the snap ring groove yet — wait until after installing the turbine shaft into the planet assembly to install those rings.
Soak the oil control rings in hot tap water to soften them for installation. Coat the oil control rings with assembly lube, then use the appropriate installers and sizers to install them on the turbine shaft. Step 8: Remove the overrun clutch snap ring, and lift the overrun clutch stack out of the drum. Step 9: Use a spring compressor to compress the clutch return spring, and remove the snap ring.
Release the spring compressor. Remove the overrun piston from the drum. Make sure the rubber seal is soft, with no signs of wear or damage. Step Lubricate the piston, and gently work it down into the drum. Keep the piston level, and rotate it into place.
Remove the drum from the compressor. Step Stack the clutches in the drum. Start with a steel plate, then alternate friction, steel, etc. The stack should contain three frictions and three steel plates. Step Use a feeler gauge to check the clearance between the overrun pressure plate and snap ring. The clearance should be between 0. If the clearance is wrong, replace the pressure plate to bring the clearance into specs.
Step Carefully work the overdrive planet into the overrun clutches. Make sure you work the one-way roller clutch down into the ramps. Step Slide the turbine shaft through the drum and planet assembly. Install the snap ring to hold the turbine shaft in the overdrive planet. Prior to using the sizer to shrink the ring to the proper size, it is best to compress the ring as small as possible by hand to avoid pinching a 'loop' of ring between the edge of the ring land on the shaft and the sizer.
Slide the sizer over the rings, and let it sit for at least a minute, to give the rings time to shrink back to size. Step 2: Slide the forward clutch hub out of the clutches. Make sure you don't lose the thrust washers on either side of the hub.
Then release the compressor, and remove the return spring. Step 5: Remove the clutch piston from the drum, then remove the lip seals from the piston and drum.
Step 6: Clean all components, and check for wear or damage: o Check the steels for cracks, wear, heat checking or spotting. Install the inner and outer lip seals into the piston grooves with the lips facing down, into the drum. Lubricate the seals and the bores in the piston and drum that the seals work against. To install the piston and return spring assembly into the drum, reverse the disassembly process shown above.
Step 8: Stack the new clutch and steel plates into the drum beginning with the clutch cushion plate. While usually a dished cushion plate, a waved cushion plate may be found here instead.
If the cushion is a dished plate, always make sure it faces concave side up. In other words, the inside edge goes down toward the piston and the outside edge goes up against the bottom steel.
Finish with a friction plate. Step Check clutch clearance. Don't install either the forward or direct clutch hubs yet — they'll interfere with the clearance measurement. Although most service manuals ProCarManuals. Here's an easier method, borrowed from proven Turbo experience:.
Make certain that the top surface of the last friction installed in the drum is below the direct clutch hub seating ledge in the drum. Find which feeler blade or combination of blades ends up flush with the hub seating ledge. The clearance specification is between 0.
It may ProCarManuals. Build this clutch to the loose side of the specification to ensure complete release when the clutch is not supposed to be applied. Step Install the thrust washers on either side of the forward clutch hub. The bronze washer goes between the drum and the hub underneath the hub , and the nylon washer goes on top of the hub.
Use assembly lube to hold the thrust washers in place. This is okay, and you can put it back together that way. Make sure you work the hub through all of the friction plates.
If the hub rotates somewhat freely while being pressed down into the drum, all clutches are engaged. The outside of this drum is used for a band dynamic apply surface. Interchange Warning- Although the THM direct drum looks and acts almost identical to the drum used in the 4L80E, there are some critical differences between the two drums.
The 4L80E direct drum uses a sprag type one way clutch for second gear, which can lock against and hold greater torque than the THM drum with the roller- type one way clutch. This difference alone makes it an unwise decision to use the THM direct drum. On the other hand, some earlier, or heavy duty, or front wheel drive versions THM of this drum had a rather beefy sprag rather than a roller clutch, and should be able to work well in a 4L80E.
Just make absolutely certain that the direct clutch drum you're going to use has room for at least a five clutch plate pack. Step 1: Remove the direct clutch pressure plate snap ring, and remove the clutch stack from the drum. Then release the return spring, and remove it from the drum. Step 3: Remove the direct clutch piston from the drum, then remove the lip seals from the piston and drum. Step 4: Flip the drum over and remove the intermediate sprag snap ring.
Slide the retainer plate, the sprag element, the outer race, and the sprag end plates off of the drum. Step 6: Sand the inner and outer sprag races with to emery cloth.
Step 7: Install the direct clutch center lip seal in the drum with the lip facing up, away from the bottom of the drum. Install the inner and outer lip seals into the piston grooves with the seal lips facing down, into the drum. Lubricate the seals and the bores in the drum and piston that the seals work against.
It works really well for easing the seal lip into a drum bore, particularly in tight places. Step 8: Install the piston return spring assembly and snap ring using a suitable press or fixture, just like when you took them out. Step 9: Install the cushion or wave plate. If the drum uses a dished cushion plate, always make sure the plate faces concave side up. Then install the rest of the plates, alternating steel, then friction and so on, ending up with five steel and five friction plates, followed by the pressure plate and snap ring.
The clearance is 0. Build this clutch to the loose side of the specification to ensure proper apply timing between the direct clutch and the low-reverse band during reverse engagement. If this clutch is set up too tight, it may begin to apply before the rear band when going into reverse, which will cause a very harsh engagement.
To avoid this, you may want to consider. Make sure that the sprag teeth are pointing in the same direction and angle, and shaped the same way as the above illustrations show. Rotate the race clockwise while carefully working the race over the sprag element teeth. Once in position, the race should very easily turn clockwise, but should instantly lock if you try to turn it counterclockwise. If the outer sprag ProCarManuals. Remove the outer sprag race and flip the sprag element over and try again.
Step 1: Slide the center support out of the reaction carrier. Make sure you don't lose the thrust washer on the back of the center support, or the sun gear front thrust bearing race that usually sticks to the support.
Step 2: Slide the sun gear shaft off the main shaft. Check the sun gear shaft for cracks, wear or damage. Check the bushings in the sun gear shaft. Make sure you don't lose any part of the sun gear thrust bearing. The front race of this bearing may have come off with the center support. Step 4: Slide the one-way clutch out of the reaction carrier and check the one-way clutch, its inner race and outer ramps for wear or damage. Replace the roller clutch for any of these reasons: ProCarManuals.
Remove the thrust washer and the split black plastic silencer ring from the front of the output carrier. Step 6: Flip the output carrier assembly, remove the case selective steel thrust washer, if it stuck to the output shaft during disassembly. Remove the babbit output shaft thrust washer and the output shaft snap ring. Step 7: Remove the output shaft from the carrier assembly. Make sure you don't lose the thrust bearing from the ring gear. Make sure you don't lose the thrust bearing and its races.
If you find any wear or damage, replace the mating components as well. Make sure each pinion's endplay is between 0. Look for chipped, damaged or missing teeth. Only on units with the output speed sensor in the transmission.
Most 4WD units have the output speed sensor in the transfer case. Step Slide the thrust bearing and races over the mainshaft, and into place on the inner ring gear thrust surface. Use assembly lube to hold the bearing and races in place. Slide the ring gear and mainshaft assembly into the planet.
Step Install the ring gear thrust bearing and races onto the ring gear. Use assembly lube to hold them in place. Step Fit the output shaft into the output carrier, and install the snap ring.
Place the output shaft babbit thrust washer onto the output shaft, holding it in place with assembly lube. Use assembly lube to hold the thrust washer in place. Slide the split black silencer ring onto the top of the carrier.
Step Dip the reaction carrier in clean ATF to lubricate the pinions. Work the reaction carrier over the mainshaft, and into the output carrier. Step Work the sun gear into the reaction carrier, with the chamfered ID facing into the carrier. Note- It's always a good idea to double-check your assembly of the sun gear and sun gear ProCarManuals.
Be sure that the sun gear end ID chamfer is aimed down, and the long sun gear shaft splines also aim down, into the sun gear. Step Assemble the sun gear front thrust bearing and races onto the sun shaft as shown in this order:.
Step On and later units, remove the oil cooler pipe fitting seal from the center support. ATB covers these changes in detail, showing the support and seal discussed here.
Step To avoid damage to the intermediate clutch return spring retainer, use a thumb to compress one side of the retainer nearest one end of the retainer snap ring. Remove the snap ring and the return spring assembly. Check the piston for cracks or damage. Step Remove the oil control rings from the center support hub. Be careful not to ProCarManuals.
Step On and later units, install the small oil cooler fitting-to-center support seal into the support, with the lip facing in. If you are going to cut corners on tool purchases, these rings can be installed with normal tools, such as a pick or scribe and a 3 inch hose clamp, but EXTREME care must be used to avoid even the slightest nick or cut on the new rings.
The life of your clutch pack is determined by things like this, so you may want to reconsider the choice of buying the special seal ring tools versus quick easy shortcuts that can cause problems. Step Slide the ring sizer or hose clamp over the hub, and let it sit for at least a minute, to give the rings a chance to resize. Then remove the sizer, and coat the rings with assembly lube. Place the direct drum over the rings for a few minutes to help compress the rings to the proper diameter.
Make sure you lubricate them. Step Install the intermediate apply piston into the center support, being certain to line up the return spring pockets in the piston with the relief pockets in the support. One easy way to be sure the pockets are lined up- Notice that two of the three pockets in the support perfectly straddle the center support bolt hole. Be sure that two pockets on the piston also straddle the bolt hole in the support.
Use a feeler gauge or piano wire to work ProCarManuals. Step Lay the return spring assembly onto the piston, and compress the spring with your thumbs while installing the snap ring.
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